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Viscoelastic Damping 101, Roush Industries is an article describing how to calculate it, and here is an example from TrueRTA in my measurements.Ī sample calculation: damping factor of 95hz resonant peak: η = (106hz - 82hz) / 95hz = 0.25Ībove is test 1: this is what the outer door skin looked like from the factory. In addition, I would test a single piece of sheet metal on the bench to see if there was a significant difference between trying to damp the resonances of my car door (a complicated system) vs a single sheet of steel (a simple system).ĭamping factor is easy to visualize using an RTA and some division. The experiment was simple: measure the damping factor of resonances of my car door as it came from the factory, after applying asphalt-based product, and again after removing the asphalt and treating it with Roadkill. A layer of Stinger Roadkill is a constrained-layer damping system because it sandwiches the butyl between the aluminum backing and the sheet metal of the car. In this example, a single layer of asphalt-based roofing material material with adhesive on one side attached to sheet metal is a free-layer damping system. "]Understanding Damping, E-A-R Specialty Composites Image borrowed from E-A-R Specialty Composites. almost every name-brand product meets this). So when shopping for a damping tile, find one with excellent adhesion, high temperature rating, a thin viscoelastic (usually butyl) layer, and a thick aluminum backing (ie. From what I understand, it seems a single very thin constrained layer sandwiched between two metals that are similar to eachother will give the best results. If you are interested in the specifics, this report from E-A-R Specialty Composites is a great primer on the difference between a free-layer damping system (FLD) and a constrained-layer damping system (CLD). As an extra credit project I ran an experiment to see how effective a single layer of asphalt-based roofing sealer (Grace Ice and Water Seal as commonly suggested during my reading) would be compared to a single layer of Stinger Roadkill (the first name-brand product I found at a local shop). But there was much controversy about asphalt vs butyl, and weather or not the presence of foil backing made a difference, or how thick it should be, and so on.Īt the time, I was in the middle of a physics class dealing with light, optics, waves and whatnot. Many forum warriors were convinced it was a grand scam and we could easily substitute products from other industries with similar materials for much less money.
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When I started learning about damping resonances and sheet metal, I was (like many people) surprised by how expensive materials like Dynamat, Hushmat and other name-brand CLD tiles were. I'd suggest following the link the DIYMA below.ĭamping Materials: name-brand product vs asphalt-based alternative This post was designed for the forum it was originally posted on which uses different formatting than Reddit. r/electricvehicles - For electric vehiclesĭon't buy that crap like Peel n' Seal. r/diyaudio - Audio Projects & talk For the DIY'er r/soundsystem - PA's, Concert Rigs, Road Gear r/hometheater - For the HomeTheater lovers
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#Car truerta measuring mod
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